How to Replace Brake Pads - Step-by-Step Guide UK

Complete guide to replacing brake pads yourself. Learn warning signs your pads need replacing, tools required, detailed step-by-step instructions, safety warnings, and when to call a professional mechanic.

By How To Car Guides2 November 2024Updated 21 November 202410 min read

Brake pad replacement is one of the most common car repairs, and it is within the capability of confident DIY mechanics. However, brakes are safety-critical components. Any mistake could result in brake failure, so this is not a task for complete beginners.

This guide covers everything you need to know: recognising when pads need replacing, the tools required, detailed step-by-step instructions, critical safety warnings, cost comparisons, and when you should call a professional instead.

Skill level: Intermediate to Advanced

Time required: 1-2 hours per axle

Cost savings: 60-120 pounds compared to garage fitting

What this guide covers:

When to replace brake pads
Tools and parts needed
Step-by-step replacement instructions
Critical safety warnings
Cost comparison: DIY vs professional
When to call a mechanic

When to Replace Brake Pads

Warning Signs Your Pads Need Replacing

Squealing or squeaking when braking Most brake pads have built-in wear indicators - small metal tabs that contact the disc when pads wear thin. This creates a high-pitched squeal specifically to warn you. Do not ignore this sound.

Grinding or scraping noise If squealing progresses to grinding, the pad material has worn completely. Metal backing is now contacting the disc, causing expensive damage. This requires immediate attention.

Brake warning light illuminated Many modern cars have electronic pad wear sensors. When illuminated, pads have reached minimum thickness. Some vehicles show specific "brake pad" warnings on dashboard displays.

Reduced braking performance If the car takes longer to stop or the brake pedal feels different, pads may be worn. However, this can indicate other brake problems, so have it checked.

Visual inspection shows thin pads Through wheel spokes, you can often see brake pads against the disc. New pads are typically 10-12mm thick. Replace when worn to 3mm or less.

Pulling to one side when braking Uneven pad wear can cause the car to pull left or right. This needs attention as it indicates uneven braking.

Typical Pad Lifespan

Brake pad life varies enormously depending on:

Driving style

Aggressive driving: 20,000-30,000 miles
Normal driving: 30,000-50,000 miles
Gentle driving: 50,000-70,000 miles

Vehicle type

Heavy vehicles wear pads faster
Performance cars often have softer, faster-wearing pads
Electric vehicles use regenerative braking, extending pad life significantly

Driving conditions

City driving with frequent stops wears pads quickly
Motorway driving is easier on brakes
Hilly areas increase wear
Towing increases wear dramatically

Pad quality

Budget pads: Shorter life, adequate performance
Mid-range: Good balance of life and performance
Premium/performance: May wear faster but better braking

Front vs Rear Pad Wear

Front pads wear faster on most vehicles because:

Weight transfers forward when braking
Front brakes do 60-70% of braking work
Expect to replace fronts twice as often as rears

Typical replacement pattern:

Front pads: Every 30,000-40,000 miles
Rear pads: Every 50,000-70,000 miles

Tools and Parts Needed

Essential Tools

Socket set (3/8" and 1/2" drive)

Caliper slide pin bolts (often 13mm or 14mm)
Caliper bracket bolts (often 15mm, 17mm, or 18mm)
Wheel nuts

C-clamp or brake piston tool

Pushes piston back into caliper
Screw-type piston tools for rear calipers with parking brake mechanism
Essential for fitting new, thicker pads

Wire or bungee cord

Supports caliper while removed
Never let caliper hang by brake hose

Torque wrench

For correct tightening of bolts
Critical for wheel nuts

Wire brush

Cleans caliper mounting points
Removes corrosion from slide pins

Brake cleaner spray

Removes oil, grease, and dust
Essential for clean installation

Parts Needed

Brake pads (per axle)

Always replace both sides together
Match specification to vehicle
Quality brands: Brembo, EBC, Pagid, Mintex, Ferodo
Typical cost: 25-80 pounds per axle

Slide pin grease (silicone or rubber-safe)

Lubricates caliper slide pins
Do not use copper grease on slide pins
Typically 5-10 pounds

Copper grease

For pad backing plates (not friction surface)
Prevents squeal
Do not get on disc or pad friction material

Optional But Recommended

New caliper slide pin bolts

Replace if corroded or damaged
Some manufacturers recommend replacement

Brake disc cleaner

Removes protective coating from new discs
Removes contamination from existing discs

Anti-squeal shims

Usually included with quality pads
Reduce brake noise

Step-by-Step Brake Pad Replacement

Preparation

Step 1: Safety first

Park on flat, solid ground
Apply parking brake (if working on front brakes)
Chock wheels on opposite axle

Step 2: Loosen wheel nuts

With vehicle on ground
Use wheel wrench or breaker bar
Loosen half turn only

Step 3: Raise vehicle

Position jack under correct jacking point
Raise until wheel is off ground
Place axle stand under structural point
Lower car onto axle stand
Keep jack in place as backup
Give vehicle a firm shake to confirm stability

Step 4: Remove wheel

Remove loosened wheel nuts
Remove wheel and set aside

Caliper Removal

Step 5: Inspect current setup Before removing anything:

Photograph or note pad orientation
Check disc condition (scoring, minimum thickness)
Identify caliper bolt locations

Step 6: Remove caliper slide pin bolts

Locate caliper slide pin bolts (usually 2 bolts at rear of caliper)
These are typically 13mm or 14mm
Remove both bolts
Keep caliper bracket bolts in place (larger bolts)

Step 7: Remove caliper

Slide caliper off disc
It may need wiggling or gentle prying
Immediately secure with wire or bungee cord
Hang from suspension component
Never let caliper hang by brake hose (damages hose internally)

Step 8: Remove old brake pads

Slide pads out of caliper bracket
Note how they are fitted
Note any wear indicator positioning
Note inner vs outer pad (may differ)

Piston Retraction

Step 9: Check brake fluid level Before pushing piston back:

Open bonnet
Locate brake fluid reservoir
Note level (will rise as piston pushed back)
If near maximum, remove some fluid with syringe
Old fluid can be disposed of; do not reuse

Step 10: Push piston back into caliper

For front calipers (most cars):

Use C-clamp or piston wind-back tool
Place old pad over piston for protection
Slowly compress piston into caliper body
Watch fluid reservoir does not overflow

For rear calipers with parking brake mechanism:

Many require screw-type tool
Piston must be rotated while being pushed
Turn clockwise (usually) while pressing
Special tool makes this much easier
Check your specific vehicle requirements

Step 11: Clean caliper and bracket

Use brake cleaner on all surfaces
Wire brush any corrosion from bracket
Clean slide pin bores
Check slide pins move freely

Step 12: Lubricate slide pins

Remove slide pins from bracket
Clean off old grease
Apply fresh silicone grease
Reinstall and ensure free movement
Stick pins are common cause of uneven wear

Installing New Pads

Step 13: Install anti-squeal shims

If included with pads, fit per instructions
Usually attach to back of pad

Step 14: Apply copper grease correctly

Apply thin layer to pad backing plates
Apply to pad edges where they contact bracket
Never apply to friction surface or disc
Never apply to slide pins (use silicone grease only)

Step 15: Install new pads

Fit inner pad (usually has wear sensor if fitted)
Fit outer pad
Ensure wear indicator is positioned correctly (at top)
Pads should slide in bracket but not be loose

Step 16: Refit caliper

Slide caliper over disc and new pads
May require slight wiggling
Should fit over pads without force
If it does not fit, piston is not fully retracted

Step 17: Refit caliper bolts

Hand thread first to prevent cross-threading
Torque to specification (typically 30-40 Nm, check manual)
Some bolts require thread lock

Reassembly

Step 18: Refit wheel

Mount wheel on hub
Hand tighten wheel nuts in star pattern
Lower vehicle off axle stand
Torque wheel nuts to specification (typically 110-120 Nm)
Use star pattern for even tightening

Step 19: Pump brake pedal

Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal
It will go to floor on first press
Pump until pedal feels firm
This pushes pads against disc

Step 20: Check brake fluid level

Top up if necessary (should be near maximum now)
Use correct fluid specification

Step 21: Repeat for other side

Always replace pads on both wheels of same axle
Never replace just one side

Bedding In New Pads

New pads need proper bedding in to perform correctly:

First 100 miles:

Avoid heavy braking where possible
Use gentle to moderate braking
Avoid emergency stops unless necessary

Bedding procedure (after 100 miles):

Find quiet road
From 30mph, brake moderately to near stop
Accelerate back to 30mph
Repeat 8-10 times
Allow 5 minutes cooling

This transfers pad material to disc surface and ensures even pad contact.

Critical Safety Warnings

Never Compromise On

Quality of parts Budget brake pads may be acceptable for normal driving, but cheap pads can have:

Shorter life
Reduced performance
More noise
Higher dust
Inconsistent quality

Use recognised brands for safety-critical components.

Correct torque values Under-tightened bolts can loosen, causing brake failure. Over-tightened bolts can strip threads or cause component damage. Always use a torque wrench.

Proper slide pin lubrication Sticking slide pins cause uneven pad wear, reduced braking, overheating, and premature failure. Clean and lubricate every pad change.

Both sides together Always replace pads on both wheels of the same axle. Uneven pad material causes pulling and inconsistent braking.

Warning Signs During the Job

Stop and seek professional help if you find:

Brake fluid leaking from caliper or hose
Seized caliper pistons that will not move
Cracked or heavily scored discs
Loose or damaged caliper brackets
Brake hose damage or bulging
Anything you are unsure about

After Completion Checks

Before driving:

Brake pedal is firm
No fluid leaks visible
All bolts are tight
Wheels turn freely without dragging

First drive:

Test brakes gently in safe area
Check for pulling
Check for unusual noises
Check pedal feel
Recheck wheel nut tightness after 50 miles

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional

DIY Costs

Parts:

Brake pads (per axle): 25-80 pounds
Slide pin grease: 5-10 pounds
Copper grease: 5-10 pounds
Brake cleaner: 5-8 pounds

Total DIY cost: 40-108 pounds per axle

Tools (one-time investment):

C-clamp or piston tool: 10-30 pounds
Torque wrench: 30-60 pounds
Socket set: 30-50 pounds

Professional Garage Costs

Independent garage:

Front brake pads: 80-150 pounds
Rear brake pads: 70-120 pounds
Including labour and parts

Main dealer:

Front brake pads: 150-250 pounds
Rear brake pads: 120-200 pounds
Including labour and parts

Savings Calculation

Front brake pad replacement:

	DIY	Independent	Dealer
Parts	40-80	25-50	40-80
Labour	0	50-80	100-150
Total	40-80	80-150	150-250
Savings	60-120	n/a	n/a

Annual savings if replacing fronts and rears: DIY saves approximately 100-250 pounds per year compared to garage fitting.

When to Call a Mechanic

Do Not Attempt DIY If

You lack experience If you have never worked on brakes before, consider having a professional show you the process once, or attending a basic mechanics course.

Discs need replacing too While disc replacement is possible DIY, it adds complexity. If discs are worn below minimum thickness, heavily scored, or warped, consider professional service.

Calipers are seized or damaged Seized pistons or damaged calipers require specialist tools and experience to repair or replace safely.

ABS or stability control warning lights are on These indicate electronic brake system faults requiring diagnostic equipment.

You are unsure at any point Brakes are safety-critical. If anything seems wrong or you are uncertain, stop and consult a professional.

Signs You Need More Than Pads

Brake disc issues:

Visible scoring (grooves you can feel with fingernail)
Thickness below minimum (stamped on disc edge)
Rust pitting on friction surface
Blue discolouration (overheating damage)

Caliper issues:

Piston will not retract
Uneven pad wear
Brake drags when released
Fluid leaks around piston seal

Hydraulic issues:

Spongy brake pedal
Brake pedal slowly sinks when held
Brake fluid leaks anywhere in system
Brake warning light on

Any of these requires professional attention beyond simple pad replacement.

Summary

Brake pad replacement is a satisfying DIY job that can save significant money. However, it requires:

Confidence and competence - Not for beginners
Proper tools - Invest in correct equipment
Quality parts - Do not compromise on brakes
Attention to detail - Follow torque specifications
Post-replacement checks - Verify everything before driving

If in doubt, consult a professional. The cost of garage fitting is worthwhile for peace of mind on safety-critical components.